Africa's highest mountain, Kilimanjaro in Tanzania , rises majestically up in the sky. The highest peak is 5895 metres. When the sun shines and the sky is clear, the glaciers on the top light up the peak. It's seldom fully covered by clouds.
From a far distance it's possible to admire the beauty of the mountain. In its full pride you can see the mountain standing in vast open scenery.
For many people it's also an open invitation to climb the mountain, but for those who do it without respect it can be pretty uncomfortable. Kilimanjaro takes and it gives. This was something I later would come to experience. Kilimanjaro was my first attempt to conquer a high mountain. This is the story of how I climbed the mountain together with a small group of brave people.
The decision is Kilimanjaro
Where should I go this summer (2003)? When the snow-capped Kilimanjaro first crossed my mind I had mixed feelings about it. I remembered my terrible experience when I landed at the airport in La Paz (the capital of Bolivia) the previous year. The altitude was almost 4000 metres, and my whole body almost broke down. But that was without acclimation.
| Photo. The second camp on our way to the top! |
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So if I took my time on the journey up the heights, I convinced myself that I would be able to cope better this time.
| Photo. Glaciers on the top of Africa`s tallest mountain! |
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In addition I didn't want to be the main character, Harry, in Ernest Hemingway's novel "The snows on Kilimanjaro". Harry dreamt about conquering Kilimanjaro, and become a real man.
But he didn't have the guts to do it. Harry, apparently, had never been able to use his talent because he had been too afraid to try.
So what about me? I had just turned 40, and now I felt strongly that I had to prove myself. I had also passed the Maasai age transition, and become a senior elder. It was assumed that I should take the responsibility of making wise and moderate decision for the community. And it was just what I did, didn't I? Yes, I needed a challenge that could test me both physically and psychologically. Perhaps all the media coverage about the 50th Anniversary of the first ascent of the world's highest mountain, Mount Everest, by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in May 1953, also inspired me.
Kilimanjaro attracted me because of the beautiful scenery and the exotic animal life. I told my friends that my aim was to have a great adventure, and that it was not the top itself that counted.
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Photo. Kilimanjaro in full pride.
The beautiful scenery was a real inspiration that helped a lot.
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So I decided to go with the renowned Norwegian travel company Hvitserk, which has specialized on mountain expeditions around the world.
Over a century people have challenged Kilimanjaro. Over 40,000 adventurers in a year enter the national park of Kilimanjaro. Circa half of the climb Kilimanjaro, but far from everybody reach the top. It's estimated that about 40 % who of those who accept the challenge fail to reach the top. I said to myself again and again; it's not the top that counts, but the adventure. To say it in other words: the way up to the top was my goal. I tried to extend my perspective to reduce the pressure to reach the top. I also made that clear to the group members, but of course deep down in my heart I wanted to say "jambo" (hello) to Kilimanjaro's least available part. To do that, I had to reach the highest point Uhuru Peak. I launched the motto "No pain, no gain". Then I envisioned what I would do if I reached the top.
My crazy vision
My vision was to do something unique at the top of the mountain. So many others have been there, so I had to find my own way to make my mark. First I wondered about taking a football (soccer) with me, and kick it out from the top. It would probably be the highest kick in the world. For people who are interested in soccer around the world, they probably wouldn't be surprised that a Norwegian took this record. Our successful national team, but also hated, with the great manager Drillo, was famous for kicking the ball both long and high. Sadly I had to reject this idea, because I assumed that a ball would be too heavy and difficult to carry.
My next idea was to dress up like the Santa Claus. I took a red cap with me. In addition I would have liked to wear a red tie so I could look better at the top. This was because I wanted to hide that I was very exhausted and show people that I had style. I dreamed about being the first Santa Claus on the top of Kilimanjaro. This would prove once and for all that Santa Claus comes from Norway. Anyhow it would not convince my girlfriend Sirpa from Soumi (Finland). Even though I would look pretty peculiar wearing these clothes, I hoped that it would be a wonderful highlight of the tour. I also planned to make a big Tarzan-roar, and bang myself on my chest. The show must go on!
Expedition start
My self-appointed personal adviser is my mother. She is always eager to give me advice before my trips. As usual she was very worried. The last thing she said to me this time was: don't push yourself too hard. If you get problems, you should walk down again immediately. But how could I reach the top without pushing myself, I asked. The only thing she added was: you need to take care of yourself.
Our expedition was set in beginning of July 2003. We were 10 people in the group including our Norwegain guide, Oddbjørn. We were all properly equipped after thorough planning. Some of the members of the group had planned this tour for several months, and some even longer. Of the three main routes, we chose a combination of the Lemosho, Machame and Mweka route. This route is recommended because it gives you more time to acclimatize. Here are some notes from my diary and the Norwegian guide Oddbjørn in Hvitserk`s reports:
Day 1 (to Forest camp: 2650 metres):
From the foot of the Kilimanjaro, the members in my group were transported in two cars. We approached the entrance of the Kilimanjaro National Park in two Toyota Landrovers. The roads became rocky. With our strong 4-wheel vehicles, we drove over almost everything and the bumpy roads really shook us. The locals we met on our way waved happily at us. Smiling children came running towards our cars and called out for us.
So we started our tour from 2200 metres by walking trough a dense jungle. It rained hard for a while, but fortunately we didn't get too wet. The path was sometimes very narrow and rocky. It was also very steep in some parts. We didn't have any armed rangers with us. It could be a good idea since there are several hungry predators around like lions and leopards. Fortunately we didn't encounter any of them. Perhaps we smelled too badly? I was prepared to use my telescope poles if any aggressive animal emerged.
Photos. First of all we had to break through the jungle!
I assumed that the wild animals here would like American and French people better, because they are tastier. I just said: Bon appetite! In December 2001 a leopard visited the Hvitserk`s group camp in Karranga River on ca. 4000 metres. Perhaps he was hungry? This was an incredible experience for the Norwegian climbers, and the first time on a Hvitserk tour.
Day 2 (to Shiraz1: 3650 metres):
We started walking at 7.30 in the morning. The path was sometimes dry and sometimes muddy. We came out of the rain forest after 5,5 hours walk, and spotted the top of Kilimanjaro for the first time. It was like a big revelation. We could clearly see our target from a far distance. The sun lightened up the top and it was an incredible good inspiration for further trekking.
When we arrived at the Shiraz1 camp we all took a bath in the river. All the busy talking in the tents that evening indicated that my friends' conditions were still very good. That promised well for the rest of the trekking. The last time our Norwegian guide stayed overnight in this camp the toilet tent blew down. A girl who was sitting there screamed out in shock. I guess it was a cold experience too.
Day 3 (to Shiraz Hut: 3950 metres):
Our two chefs woke us up at 6.30. The weather was still clear. Some of us got beginning symptoms of altitude sickness such as headaches.
Second camp:
This was the worst night of my life. I didn't sleep at all. I shook terribly, rolled round continuously in the tent, felt dizzy and nearly lost my conscious. I nearly called out for the guide who slept in another tent. I think most of my strong symptoms came from sun burn.
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Photo. It was a kind of relief waking up in the morning feeling that I still was alive.
The beautiful sunrise on Kilimanjaro seen from the tent door made me almost forget my terrible night.
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Loud snoring was a little bit annoying in the beginning of the tour, but we liked to joke about it. Someone blamed the "poor" monkeys, other blamed other kind of animals. When I woke up this morning, I really wondered: are there lions this high up? I heard some roaring near our tents in the night, I said.
The girls blamed me for the terrible noises. It was probably half of the truth. I was not alone making noises. Sometimes it sounded like a whole orchestra totally out of harmony, and it was definitely not comparable with London Philharmonic Orchestra. Someone suggested that earplugs should be added to the travel company Hvitserk`s equipment list (as an extremely essential effect?).
After a delicious breakfast I was "fit for fight again". We walked trough a harsh terrain where there had been several fires.
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Some of my friends walked a little higher up than our next camp Shiraz Hut so they could feel the thin air before they went to sleep.
Photo. Me resting on poles! |
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Day 4 (to Camp Barranco: 3900 metres):
This day we had a long walk. It was sunny, so it was important to use sun protection. On the highest point, we reached 4500 metres, before we went down to a valley in Barranco and a little bit up again. Stony paths. We're heading against the Breakfast Wall, which is very steep. We spotted many cactuses on our way. Some group members took a shower in a small waterfall near the camp. From the camp we could see lights from a village by the foot of the mountain.
Day 5 (to Karanga Valley: 3950 metres):
We went up the steep Breakfast Wall without big problems. It was foggy for the first time, the wind blew cold and it rained. On our way we passed a small cave. Our local main guide Marc (expedition leader) used to stay overnight in there. This cave is very good for shelter, he told me. The leopard also used this cave sometimes, so I wondered how they could sleep at the same time. No, said Marc, it has never been a problem. We have never been there at the same time. How could he call this a "shelter" when he knew the leopard use the same place? I definitely prefer to stay in a tent.
We went from ridge to ridge, up and down steep hillsides. I experienced that we had to walk down sometimes to get higher up. Some parts of this trip, we had to climb a little. Some parts very difficult. It was a little bit risky and scary. I am so impressed by the porters who carry heavy stuff, and at same time are capable of climbing. No obstacles were big enough to stop them.
Day 6: (to Barafu: 4600 metres):
We went up to the last camp before the absolute top. It was a short walk for about 3,5 hours. On our way we arranged a filming of a dramatic Yeti-scene. The must show go on. We all keep up our spirits in the height. This day was for resting and acclimation before the real big challenge.
Day 6 and 7: (to Uhuru Peak: 5895 metres, and to Mweka Camp: 3100 metres):
Meeting for the final briefing at eleven O`clock in the night. We started walking optimistically at midnight. This was the day we should reach the top of Kilimanjaro, Uhuru Peak. Already on about 5000 metres we saw snow for the first time. Fortunately there was no snowing, or even worse; a blizzard. The weather could not have been more perfect. Both the moonshine and the new snow made it so bright that we didn't need to use the headlight at all.
From the start from Barufu, up to the top, and down to the Mweka Camp, I used 17 hours. The 12th of July will definitely be remembered as a milestone in my life. This felt as the longest day ever in my life. All muscles in my thighs and legs ached, and the boots flew the skin off my feet. But despite the exhaustion, I had a good feeling since I achieved my big goal: conquering the top!
Read more of this article in part 2.
Stein Morten Lund, 8 august 2003
Additional information
Facts about Kilimanjaro:
- The highest peak, Uhuru Peak, is 5895 metres above sea level.
- The highest peak is 550 metres higher than the Everest Base Camp that climbers use at least two weeks to reach.
- Kilimanjaro stands 330 kilometres south of equator, on the northern boundary of Tanzania.
- It's the highest mountain on the African continent.
- It composes three extinct volcanoes: Kibo 5895 m (19340), Mawenzi 5149 m (16896 ft) and Shira 3962 m (13000 ft)
It's one of the world's highest free standing mountains.
- The first man on the top was Hans Meyer from Germany in 1889.
- The Kilimanjaro massif has an oval base about 40 metres to 60 kilometres across, and rises almost 5000 metres above the surrounding plains.
By reading my story you can understand that most people can do the same. Reaching the top of Kilimanjaro it's not unique in itself, but it's a great personal victory for most people.I remember Neil Armstrong's famous words when he became the first human on the moon: "One small step for man, one giant leap for mankind". I would like to put it this way: "One small step for mankind, one giant leap for me"!
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